Envínate Migan

I tasted the bottled 2022 Migan, which was paler than the sample of 2023 I tasted next to it and also felt more reductive. Sixty-three percent of the wine was with lees in used 500- and 600-liter oak barrels, and the rest (from the Tío Luis plot) was kept with fine lees in a 4,200-liter concrete vat. It has 12% alcohol and is very volcanic, with clear reminiscences of pumice stone and lapilli ash but with the black peppercorns from Orotava also clearly there. It's a little lighter than the more complete 2023. 10,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2023.

Sandalwood dust, pepper, lavender scented. Red currant. Cranberry. Pink peppercorn. Szechuann. So aerien that even in my mouth it seems to float like a gossamer scarf in a light breeze. And yet - and yet - there is something of ancient stones here. Something so firm, so intractable that it has a kind of timeless permanence. As if it tasted of the shadow of a mountain. Always there, day after day, a sundial wine, a timekeeper wine, a wine without time. This pale, pale, diaphanous, translucent wine is, like the shadow of a mountain, almost unnoticeable, unless you choose to stop, be still, look up, feel.

Impressive aromas of rich and fine red cherries swathed in baking spices. This delivers a wealth of very fresh, crunchy red cherries in an elegant, pinot-like mode. Super precise and focused. Excellent wine. Drink or hold.