Italian miracles. On Ponza Island, no more than ten volcanic square kilometres off the coast of Terracina and Gaeta, wine is produced. And it’s good. Emanuele Vittorio and Luca Sabino lovingly look after some heroic vineyards in Punta Fieno. Manual operation and modern vinification for a splendid range, but only 11,000 bottles a year . The local vines derive from Ischia and here they express incredible minerality and sapidity. The Fieno Bianco stands out: hints of sage, broom, chalk, papaya. And it has a persistence beyond all expectations.